Jib Car Setup

[bdpvt]

[thumb=852][/img] I am resurrecting a 1977 DSII which is missing some hardware and all the running rigging. I replaced the missing jib cars and tracks with parts from D & R Marine. Now that they are installed i am at a loss as to how to rig the jib sheet. Having nothing to compare to ,this setup does not make sense to me. As shown in the photo, it would be impossible to cleat the jib sheet from across the cockpit. Am I missing something here?

[Alan]

That's a - Schaefer, I'm guessing? - replacement for the original fairlead/cam cleat unit that's mounted on the jib car. Whatever the manufacturer, it's similar to the original, which also won't let you cleat the jib sheet from across the cockpit.

There was just recently a thread on this, and someone posted a photo. I'll try to find it, but in the meantime, someone with more expertise in matters sailing and computer might do it.

[Alan]

Aha, found it. In the DSII forum, about the seventh or eighth post down, is one titled Jib Cleats. It's got a photo of the original fairlead/cam cleat. The cam cleat is angled so that you have to pull toward the bow to cleat or uncleat the sheet, kind of a nuisance if you're single-handing. Yours looks like it might swivel, in which case you'd be able to cleat or uncleat the sheet while positioned aft of the jib car.

My 1980 DSII has two angled surfaces on top of the centerboard trunk that look like they might be designed as mounting points for jib sheet cleats. Quite a few of the experienced sailors here have that setup.

(Full disclosure: I'm a well-read rookie.)

[jdoorly]

If you want to work the jib sheet from the high side, which I would say is the normal technique, you will want to install just a fairlead or block on a jib car (i.e. http://www.drmarine.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LLC-1UB) on the jib tracks, and put 2 cam cleats on wedges facing opposite directions on the centerboard trunk. Feed the sheet thru the jib car block to the cam cleat that faces the high side.

The jib cars you purchased are worked from the low side. You may be able to modify them or exchange them for what you want.

[bdpvt]

Thanks for the good advice. I think I will move the cleats to the centerboard trunk. Seems like that is the logical place for them anyway. Any advantage to mounting cleats on swivel base? Might be nice when singlehanded.

[jdoorly]

I've been considering moving my jib cam cleats from the top/front of the centerboard trunk to the aft facing wall of the trunk, to ease single-handing.

I'm already in the process of moving the jib tracks from the inside of the coaming to the top of the coaming. When I cut the 6.5" holes in the cuddy to gain access to the inside of the coaming, I started by using a jig saw but soon ran out of elbow room and could not complete the circle. Then my son lended to me his Fein Tools vibrating saw which made quick work of both access holes and cut through the fiberglass like warm butter. I found 6" screw-in inspection plates at West Marine for only $14 each.

When I cut the access holes I also found some soggy styrofoam, so I'm saving plastic bottles to to refill the space

DS2 #6408 "Desperado"

[GreenLake]

@jdoorly: Wouldn't that result in your seating position to be too far backward for correct fore-aft trim?

I was sailing with another boat recently and he thought my transom was too far in the water. That was with me sitting rather forward, but not at the most forward position.

If I sat kind of next to the end of the tiller, I imagine the transom would have been dragging.

I'd say, get a good tiller extension and enjoy better boat speed!

(If your cuddy is very full with gear, that might provide some counterbalance - but when I singlehand, the cuddy is usually empty).

[talbot]

I agree with Greenlake. The boat handles best with the skipper sitting more or less across from or slightly forward of the mainsheet swivel on top of the CB trunk. Besides improving the fore-aft profile of the hull (which Greenlake referred to), I think you have more leverage for hiking when you sit close to the boat's widest beam. Another advantage is that if you take a knockdown and the boat heels suddenly, you won't slide off the rail. Even if your feet slip in the hiking straps, they come to rest against the CB trunk. That's particularly important when single-handing because you have less counterbalance weight to start with, and if you lost your position, there's no one else there to help right the boat.

With swivel cams on the trunk and a hiking extension on the tiller, all the crtical controls are in reach from just about any place in the cockpit.

[jdoorly]

Thanks for the concern, you (both) might be right.

I do keep the cuddy full of stuff, and when I put a level on the floor (by the centerboard trunk) it indicated perfect for 'n aft trim. I was abreast of the jib cam cleats and my adult son was abreast of the tiller head and I keep a battery and the minn kota at the stern. Of course I'm assuming that the cockpit floor is level.

In the future I'm planning on putting 2 batteries by the mast base (with none at the stern) and adding even more stuff in the cuddy.

Next time I'm launching I'll watch the waterline while my crew moves to get good trim while we check the cockpit floor for level.

[K.C. Walker]

In looking at your pictures, you have a fairlead and nice cleat set up with wide-angle front mount fairleads, as well. If you mount your cleats on the centerboard trunk with the wide angle front mounted fairlead you won't need a swivel base, which I think would get in the way. I would move the whole back fairlead and front fairlead with cleat arrangement to the centerboard trunk and add a block to the jib car. This would make a very user-friendly set up.

If you want to make it even more user-friendly you could use a ratchet block on the jib car.

KC

[DoorCoMel]

Thought I would add my experience with the jib cars here. After I bought my boat (1976 DS II) about 3 years ago, I discovered the jib cars were missing. In looking for replacements, it seemed that I had a narrower track than is currently used, so I bought a new set of cars and tracks from D&R. I first mounted them in the standard (inboard) position, but it became clear that sheeting from a forward (ie,crew) position would result in force being applied almost perpendicular to the plane of the track which appeared to be a good recipe for pulling the track loose. So I remounted them on top of the coaming, somewhat forward of the originals to give me the same fore/aft adjustment on the sheet. Now the force exerted by the jib is somewhat up, but mostly lateral to the track, and the force exerted by the crew is also mostly lateral. I mounted the track with SS screws and sealer, with no backing plate. Everything seems to be holding together quite well.

I don't know if this would be legal for racing. It does slightly limit how far inboard you can sheet the jib which I suppose makes a little difference on performance. The big positive is that now passengers/crew can sit all the way against the cuddy bulkhead without having the car in their back!